After several memorable days in Edinburgh, it’s time to move on if we are to keep up with our packed Scotland driving itinerary. Today, we journey from the cobblestone bustle of Edinburgh to St Andrews, home to its famed golf course nestled on the eastern coast, and then onward to peaceful Pitlochry.
We rented a black BMW 320D from the Arnold Clark rental agency, and we’re off, repeating our driving mantra: Left lane… left lane… left lane.
Edinburgh to St Andrews
We soon spot the glisten of water and the sweeping white cables of a bridge that looks like the sail of a massive ship. It’s the Queensferry Crossing—a 1.7-mile expanse over the Firth of Forth; it’s the longest three-tower cable-stayed bridge in the world, though I don’t know this as we cross. I admire the long, elegant lines of the suspension cables, like strings of a giant harp.
We leave the M90 behind for the A92, winding through Lundin Links, Kilconquhar, Anstruther, and Crail. The roads narrow, Kenny’s grip on the steering wheel tightens, but the views of lush fields and glimpses of the sea help alleviate the stress.
Parking was easier than expected, and we walked straight toward our goal: a first look at the legendary Old Course.
Even though Kenny isn’t playing today (lottery slots for tee times are notoriously hard to win), we want to see this birthplace of golf, where the game began over 600 years ago. I try to imagine that first game in the 1400s, kilts blowing in the sea breeze.
Lunch at The Jigger Inn – St Andrews
As we walk alongside the course, the wind whips off the sea and across the open greens. Our destination, The Jigger Inn, welcomes us into its cozy warmth. Seated at a back corner table, we look at the framed black-and-white photos of golfers long gone.
An order of Thatcher’s cider helps us settle in, and I spot Cullen Skink on the starter menu. I go for round three with this Scottish soup and am rewarded again. The smoky haddock is perfect, served alongside sourdough and butter. I also ordered brie with onion and mustard seed jam and a side salad—crispy, creamy, comforting.
The Jigger Inn, dating back to 1852, is attached to The Old Course Hotel, which is also home to the St Andrews Golf Pro Shop, where you can buy St Andrews-themed golf gear.
We make our way back outside and onto the walking path that runs parallel to the course. The 17th Hole is just a few yards away from us, and we watch as a group of golfers play through.
The weather is windy and chilly, but it’s a clear day with blue skies, and we can see the deep bunkers clearly.
We walk toward the 18th hole and the iconic Swilcan Bridge, arching gracefully against the backdrop of St Andrews. It’s surprising how close the public can get to the players and the course. Something that would never happen back in the States. We linger a moment, soaking it in, until the cold drives us back to the car.
St Andrews to Pitlochry
The drive to Pitlochry takes about an hour and a half, but it’s lovely. Golden fields of rapeseed blaze on the horizon, and the countryside is dotted with tidy stone houses that look lifted from the pages of Jane Austen.
By the time we pull into The Old Mill Inn, it’s just after 4:00 p.m., and the Mill’s great waterwheel is spinning steadily.
We stretch our legs with a short walk over the small stream, or burn, as the Scots would say, and into the warm, cozy lobby. There’s no lift, so we grab only what we need for the night and the next day. Our room is spacious and inviting, with a heated tile floor in the bathroom and windows that open wide to let in the crisp air.
With little to unpack, we stroll through Pitlochry beneath a sky grown grey.
Most shops are closed for the day, but we enjoy the quiet streets, passing the Auld Smiddy Inn and admiring the turrets and stonework of Pitlochry’s buildings.
The town is in bloom, with pink cherry blossoms and yellow tulips swaying gently in the twilight.
We make the full loop of the street until we find ourselves passing the creamy white umbrella tables of The Old Mill Inn, just in time for dinner.
Dinner at The Old Mill Inn
I try a Belhaven Black stout, Kenny an Aspall Cider, alongside an order of Arancini. It’s a good start, only getting better from there.
Since I had Cullen Skink for lunch, I decide to go a different direction and order the Mushroom on Toast served with a creamed garlic and herb on toasted sourdough covered in a Mull Cheddar Gratin and topped with truffle oil and watercress. Wow.
Craving something fresh and green, I opt for the Beetroot, Feta, & Avocado Salad with baby spinach, pomegranate, buckwheat, toasted mixed seeds, and a house dressing. Kenny orders the Wild Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and truffle oil, and we get a side of the Dauphinoise Potatoes. It’s been a long day, and we’re hungry.
*This is one of the best meals we will have in Scotland, and we have quite a few memorable ones.
Tired from a full day of driving the eastern coast of Scotland and full from another stellar meal, we retreat upstairs for some much-needed rest. The day ends with memories of a delicious meal and laughter, wrapped in the quiet of a dark, cloudy Pitlochry night.
