The clouds hang low over the Royal Mile as we wake to our 1 day in Edinburgh, and a misty rain softens the edges of the historic buildings. Tolbooth Tavern stands out with its turrets and a large clock tower that extends over the Royal Mile. Built as part of the original Canongate Tolbooth in 1591 and operating as a tavern since 1820, it’s easy to imagine Tolbert Tavern bustling with locals centuries ago.
1 Day in Edinburgh
Inside, we’re instantly warmed by the dark wood bar, red walls, and glowing lamps. We’re seated upstairs on a mezzanine overlooking the main floor, as faint strains of traditional Scottish music play over the speakers. I feel immediately at ease, and I haven’t even had my first bite.
I order a Guinness, Kenny a cider, and then—tentatively—I ask if they have Cullen Skink. The waiter lights up when I tell him it’s my first time trying the traditional Scottish soup. “You picked a fine spot for your first one,” he says with a smile.
He’s right. The soup is light yet creamy, the haddock tender without being overly smoky or fishy, and the potatoes and onions are yum-yum-yum. It comes with a thick slice of bread and butter, and I could have happily let that be my entire meal.
But I also ordered the Mushrooms on Toasted Bloomer, glazed in a garlic cream sauce and topped with shaved Grana Padano. It’s fantastic as well. Kenny opts for the homemade steak pie with thick-cut chips—delicious, but we both agree my meal wins.
Full and warm, we begin walking up the Royal Mile. We pass The World’s End Pub, named for the original boundary of Edinburgh’s city walls. In the 16th century, citizens believed that anything beyond the gates was no longer their world—hence, “The World’s End.”
We wander through cashmere shops like Moubray House and Balmoral Cashmere & Tweed, where I fall in love with a blue plaid reversible cape with an attached scarf. The shop girl agrees to hold it for me while we continue exploring.
We peek down the shadowy “closes”—narrow alleyways with names like Monteith’s Close, Paisley Close, and Jollie’s Close—before arriving at The Real Mary King’s Close for our next tour.
Our guide, in character as Mary King’s daughter, is energetic and committed. But ultimately, we find the tour underwhelming. It’s crowded, a bit rushed, and doesn’t quite live up to the glowing reviews. In hindsight, I think I’d have preferred wandering through the existing closes at our own pace.
But that’s travel; what delights one person might fall flat for another.
Back above ground—and free of ancient horsehair and damp cellar air—we cross the street to visit St Giles’ Cathedral. We’ve passed it several times already, but the gentle rain makes this the perfect moment to step inside.
The cathedral, with roots dating back to 1124, is stunning. The vaulted ceiling immediately catches my eye—not just for its soaring architecture, but for its rich royal blue color, mirroring the Scottish flag. Golden braces crisscross the ceiling, adding warmth to the vast stone space.
A sleek new mahogany and silver pipe organ stands to the right, where a golden eagle perches with outstretched wings on a staff.
Chilled and ready to rest, we duck into The Albanach, just across the street. It’s crowded, but we snag a window table just vacated by a couple and their dog. I order a hot toddy for myself and an Aspall cider for Kenny.
The toddy, spiced with lemon, honey, and whisky, is exactly what I need.
Unfortunately, I can feel something coming on—my throat aches, and I sense the beginning of the illness that will follow me throughout the rest of the trip. But for now, I’m in a cozy pub in Edinburgh, sipping something warm, watching people bustle past the window on the Royal Mile.
So what if I’m getting sick?
We pick up my new cape from Balmoral and head back downhill to the W Hotel for a short rest before dinner.
Tonight, we’re trying something different. We’ve heard rave reviews about Dishoom, a Bombay-style comfort food restaurant with locations in a few major UK cities. With the rest of our trip consisting mostly of Scottish fare, we figure now is the perfect moment to shake things up.
We walk through St Andrew Square Garden, under blossoming cherry trees and strutting pigeons, and arrive to find a bustling scene outside Dishoom. Thankfully, we have reservations—essential for avoiding a long wait or getting turned away entirely. We’re shown upstairs to the main dining room and are seated at a small table beside the staircase.
The menu is large and a bit overwhelming, but we’ve done our homework and know what we want. Our server guides us on portions and categories, and soon we’re set.
For drinks, I order the infused Negroni with Manzanilla dry sherry, apricot liqueur, and Calvados, served over ice with a dark chocolate square on top. Kenny considers the “Blushing Colada” but goes with the more robust “New Permit Room Old-Fashioned”, made with coconut-washed Woodford Bourbon, Pedro Ximénez sherry, and Medjool date liqueur.
The cocktails arrive in apothecary-style glass bottles with stoppers, which we pour ourselves. They’re strong, flavorful, and elegant, and one is definitely enough.
Our appetizer is the Chota Papad with mango chutney—crispy, spicy, almost like puffed Chex Mix with a kick. I like the texture, but the heat is a bit much for me. I sneeze if a peppermint is too strong. Toothpaste can send me into a sneezing fit.
Kenny orders Chilli Chicken, Gunpowder Potatoes, and Mattar Paneer, with garlic naan and basmati rice. For me, the naan and rice are the clear winners. The rest lights me up like a Roman candle. It’s tasty, but I’m clearly not built for spice. Let the sneezing begin.
After dinner, we stroll back through the open-air mall to the W Hotel. We’ve reserved a spot on the rooftop terrace for a final nightcap, and it’s quiet up there—just one other person taking pictures. The 360-degree view of Edinburgh at twilight is beautiful.
To the left, Arthur’s Seat rises green and golden with gorse. Straight ahead, we spot Princes Street, the Royal Mile, the spire of St Giles, and the silhouette of the castle.
Calton Hill stands tall, crowned by its never-finished Athenian acropolis—its very incompleteness making it feel ancient, as if it’s been there for ages rather than since 1822.
Behind us, the coast stretches out in soft blue-grey, the sea barely distinguishable from the sky as the last light fades.
We head one floor down to the W Lounge, where we’re seated with a sweeping view of downtown Edinburgh.
Thirsty from the walking and all the spice, we order a full bottle of still water from Loch Ness Water, complete with a Nessie logo and a tagline that makes us smile: “So still because the only thing that moves in Loch Ness is the Monster.”
The cocktail menu is extensive and created with such a thoughtful design, each section reflecting an aspect of Scotland’s mythical creatures–the Unicorn, the Dragon, the Giants, the Blue Men of Minch, the Shapeshifters, and the Water of Life.
I finally decide to order “The Shapeshifters,” made with GlenDronach 12, Vermouth, Leith Oloroso Sherry, Acids, and Orange Bitters. Kenny ordered the “Goodbye” from The Unicorn selection made with Roasted Pineapple Arbikie Rye, Pierre Fernandez Dry Curacao, Orange Bitters, and a lemon sugar rim.
The sky darkens into a velvet blue-grey, and with glasses in hand, we close out our seventh day in the U.K.
